On completing 3 years in Kyoto

Today, as my Facebook status declares, I have completed 3 years in Kyoto. What my status message doesn’t say, is that I am feeling melancholy…because I don’t do “emotional” on Facebook! These 3 years have been momentous in many ways. They were the first 3 years of my marriage, of truly independent living, of learning Japanese to survive, of working to realize my lifelong dream of doctorate research, of learning to cook, and many more firsts. But what has affected me most has been perhaps living in Kyoto. This city has not only been my home for these 3 years; it’s been my companion.

Kyoto is often known as the city with some of the highest levels of elderly population, but that statistic doesn’t mention that this retired demographic consists of so many competitive swimmers, skiers, dancers, entrepreneurs, comedians, and the quirkiest most energetic livers of life! It may be the old capital, but the blood that flows through the veins of Kyoto is young, warm and plentiful, and it gushes through each of its residents, making them come alive.

Kyoto touches each person in a unique way. I know that I am one among its many many lovers, but on the 3^rd anniversary of our beautiful association, as I feel melancholy because I have only 6 months left, here are my humble words for this city.

An Urban Planner’s Love Letter

I was not a nature lover, not an outdoor person, not an admirer of petals, not a feeler of the breeze.

I am a big city girl and damn proud of it. I like crowds, and life in the fast lane.

Neon lights, buzzing traffic, blaring sirens make me feel alive.

I like artificial air-conditioning.

I would choose a spread of international cuisine over local produce any day.

The frighteningly rickety Calcutta busses, the “can of sardines” Bombay locals, the infinite labyrinth of the London Tube are my childhood memories, my culture, my friendships, my home, my identity. 

Then I met You.

The sound of raindrops in bamboo groves,

The hike up to the top of Daimonji to see the sun set over the city,

Kamogawa; a dear friend who shares happiness, tears, apprehensions and boredom, and also loves to hear me sing!

The live musicians at Gion corner, the calligraphers at Gion corner,

The scent of Sakura,

The sight of wisps of Sakura petals twirling softly in the breeze, landing on my eyes, my cheeks, strangely reminding me of the warmth of my late grandparents,

The group message giggles after earthquakes and the special typhoon parties,

And any of these on a normal weekday, on my way to and from University.

You accepted me with all of my “city girl” arrogance, you moved me, and changed me forever.

You taught me that I didn’t have to give up my love for speed and the urban buzz,

But you also taught me to live with beauty.

Just as a person’s true beauty is not in the structure of their cheekbones or the symmetry of their face but rather in the twinkle of their eyes and laughter in their smile,

Your true charisma is often hidden behind the spectacular displays of Sakura, Momiji, shrines and temples.

But I am a pilgrim for your love.

I see your beauty in your wisdom, the way in which you achieve elegant balance.

The traditional and the ultra-modern,

Streetscapes lined with wooden Machiya and strolling Geishas,

Streetscapes of grandiose shop window displays in the central business district,

The efficient and ever on time busses, displaying vistas of hills, rivers and ravines, the city streets with surprises at every turn,

The quiet residential neighbourhoods and lively shopping streets,

The kids and birds flapping about in the gurgling river on a sunny day, and the salary-men in identical black suits busily passing them by,

The kimono-wearing, yatsuhashi-offering, gently-cooing ObaaChaans, and the rebellious cosplayers at the Convocation Ceremony,

The plots of urban micro farming, next to Shinkansen tracks,

And the food… oh the goodness of fresh, local produce!

You are not a city of contradictions; you are a city of constant and perfect Synthesis.

You are my great love, my muse, my inspiration,

You are in the layout of my furniture,

In the birthday cards I design,

In the food I eat for celebrations, and in busy days of writing my PhD thesis,

In the way I greet strangers,

In how tight I hug my friends,

In the songs stuck in my head while I’m cycling,

In everything that inspires my creativity,

In my acceptance of my flaws as enhancing the uniqueness of my strengths,

In the rigorous sincerity of my efforts, and in not taking myself too seriously,

In my new-found understanding of “quality time” that doesn’t have to be a constant competition for more marks/ money/ merchandise,

I always liked the solitude of walking in urban crowds, but who knew I’d find the same meditative peace in hiking up Daimonji and Fujisan.

I am just starting, still learning, but you’ll always be mine,

My home, my work, my habits, my beliefs, and the very essence of who I am will forever be, Kyoto.

Explanation of words in italics:

Daimonji - A hill near my house with the kanji letter "dai" meaning "big" inscribed on it. A yearly festival sees the light up of the kanji character of this hill and many surrounding hills, denoting a prayer for the late ancestors' souls to rest in peace. It is a nice hike to the top that takes me around 40 minutes and offers a beautiful view of the city from the summit, especially at sunset.

Kamogawa - The main river that flows through Kyoto, a short walk from my house, and beautiful in all seasons.

Gion Corner - A busy street intersection in downtown Kyoto that is always bursting with activity. A very traditional area of Kyoto and good place to catch glimpses of Geishas.

Sakura - Cherry blossoms that decorate the city every spring and make it seem like heaven!

Momiji - The red and yellow maple leaves that beatify the city every Autumn.

Machiya - The traditional vernacular Town Houses of Kyoto. Wooden, G+1 structures, typically containing a shop and residential quarters, with a beautiful inner garden viewed from the house, as seen here. 

Geisha - Traditional artisans who are trained in performing arts such as playing Shamisen and dancing among others. They have a delicate and mysterious elegance and a fleeting presence. They traditionally paint their faces which makes them very recognizable. 

Salary-Men - The name given to busy office workers in Japan, famous for their identical suits and work centered lives.

Yatsuhashi - A traditional Japanese sweet very famous in Kyoto. A triangular sandwich which has an outer cover made of rice paste and an inner sweet filling which ranges from red-bean paste, to chocolate, to green tea paste, various fruits and flowers! For images, click here!

Obaachan - This means Aunty is Japanese and refers to the large number of middle to old age women that reside in Japan. They are very active and entrepreneurial, as well as warm and friendly!

Cosplayer - This describes the act of dressing up to look like Japanese Manga characters. Many students, upon completing their Bachelors degree, Cosplay on their graduation day and receive their degree in ridiculous outfits! Here is a photo of some cosplyers I saw in Osaka!

Shinkansen - This is the Japanese name for the bullet train which can travel at speeds up to 320 km/hr.

Fuji San - Mount Fuji is the highest peak in Japan and is considered to be a sacred figure, which is why is is said with the honorific title of "San". I climbed this mountain in August 2013 and blogged about it here!